Hey there, can someone please help me?
I’m trying to make a basic bodice with my measurements following this guide but it ended up looking extremley different can you tell me whats wrong? please
My meaussrements are:
- Size 42 (In the Frcational List chart)
Here’s the final result that’s wrong:
these are my measurements:
Medidas Burgo Utzci.vit (2.5 KB)
i couldn’t upload it in the original post, sorry.
The only problem lies with the following three measurements.
Point C1 is based on Bust circumference, which is smaller than the Waist circumference
- Chest circumference = 81
- Bust circumference = 62
- Waist circumference = 68
So should I replace it with Chest circunference or what do I do? Thanks for answering BTW <3
Yes use your chest circumference measurement and this should work out fine.
Your back width is close to your shoulder width. This is normal, most people’s back armscye curve is a bit flat and shallow. The example bodice in your book is a bit exaggerated.
You may find that you need to add a dart in the shoulder seam to make your bodice’s shoulder length match your actual shoulder length.
If point G isn’t high enough for your neck and shoulder muscles then you should create a new measurement from neck side down to waist level at the back (Valentina’s neck_side_to_waist_b). some systems call this the Full Back Length. Set D’s formula to use this measurement from A, then G will be at the correct place for the side of your neck.
I’m curious, why isn’t bust circumference the same as chest circumference? Vocabulary can be confusing when discussing measurements. Maybe you’re using a book which prescribes this terminology, or there may be language translation issues at play here. Here’s the terminology that I’m familiar with, which is by no means authoritative:
Bust and chest refer to the same measurement around the fullest part of the breasts.
High bust or upper bust is the measurement right under the arm above the breasts.
Low bust or under bust or rib cage is the measurement right underneath the breasts.
Also, measure up from D at distance = back waist length to create new point B2
So going down from A to D is the length from neck side to waist,
And going up from D to B2 is the length from neck center to waist.
You will have a neck curve and shoulder angle which fits you, whether you’re a 28-year-old weight lifter or a 12-year old nerd.
And there’s a trick to creating a nice neck curve.
Add a point B3 at intersection of B2 and G, and add guide lines from B2 to B3, and from G to B3
Create your neck curve from B2 to G with lengths and angles as shown in the image.
For this example, I added Known Measurement neck_side_to_waist_b & gave it a value of 50 ( I added 3 to your center back waist length, I arbitrarily assigned this value, your actual measurement may be different.)
I entered the wrong measurements, I typed 62 cm instead of 87cm in the chest circumference.
I’m a guy, so I don’t have any breasts. I’m also super slim, don’t know if the same basic bodice is for men and women. I’m trying to make it as fitted as possible to my body, really “couture”. The problem is that I’m such a beginner. I’m begginig a fashion mayor. I’m trying to make a Fur coat that’s why I gave 10 cm of seam allowance.
sorry for being such an amateur I’m trying really hard to make it the best I can haha thank you so much for taking your time to review my posts, you’re an Angel. I really appreciate everything you commented I’ll try to investigate the shoulder dart. <3
I had to get over shyness of saying ‘breasts’ a few years ago when I started patternmaking. Body parts are just parts at this point.
I could tell you want to know how to make patterns that fit. So if you have any questions, post them public or private, I’ll help.