Kristina Shin Basic underwire bra tutorial

[AVI]

Hi,

I made a tutorial for the basic underwire bra using the Kristina Shin Method. I only made it up until the details, I did not include labelling, seam allowance or notches at the moment.

These were the issues I had, if anyone has a better way to do this, don’t hesitate to enlighten us.

• Currently bra sizing is not included, so if I wanted to make this in a multisize, I would have to assign my band and cup values to the existing size and height selection.
• I cannot import a background image to trace, so I had to use reference points to draw my wire
• At some point KS draws a parallel curve to the wire line, as if you were to draw a seam. Trying to move this curve will not get the same result as some parts need to be moved left and others up, going inward, making the curve smaller. So I made a second curve to get the result I needed.
• To draft the upper cup, you need measurements from both bottom cup and cradle, so I did not follow the same order as in the book. I started with the bottom cup, then the band and cradle, and finally the upper cup.

Kristina Shin basic underwire bra tutorial.pdf (307.1 KB)

*corrected a few points → the Y points should be C5 and C6, added missing info on wingdrop

[MrDoo]

Looks great.

Point 2. If you are running this from source code I have a few lines of code that can be used to add an image as a background. Let me know if this would be useful. (For someone that that knows the source code better than me this could be turned into a proper feature pretty easily.)

Point 3. Your approach for creating a parallel curve by creating new control points perpendicularly offset to the original ones looks right to me. If you use the type of curve where each control point is tied to a node then that should remove any manual adjustment of the curve.

[AVI]

Hi, Thanks for the feedback. I just use the program, I have no idea how to run it from source code, but I think this would be an interesting feature.

[kmf]

@MrDoo I would love to have the lines of source code. I might even be able to figure out where it fits in the overall structure of the seamly program and if so I will open an issue and submit the suggested enhancement. I have been really busy with family obligations since I disappeared on my cruise but I am anxious to get back involved with seamly

[Douglas]

@AVI

To draft the upper cup, you need measurements from both bottom cup and cradle, so I did not follow the same order as in the book. I started with the bottom cup, then the band and cradle, and finally the upper cup.

Unfortunately this a draw back to using Seamly2D… that is you can only reference objects previously created, so you need to visualize how you’re going to draft the pattern ahead of time, and even then you will at times find you should have created this or that line before doing something else. There have been times when I just repeat a line later in the pattern just so I can reference it without redoing a bunch of the pattern.

@kmf

@MrDoo I would love to have the lines of source code.

Ditto… Although there’s several issues to consider… 1)What type of images to import? 2)Have to make sure the image scales to match the view window. 3) Is the BG image to be saved with the pattern and how? Since images are bin they can’t be directly stored in the XML without being converted to a bytearray.

For another topic: This is were a new container spec should be created that could store a pattern with the .val’s, .vit’s, jpg’s/gif’s/png’s, PDF’s, txt, doc, mp4’s… or whatever other contents seems desirable to deliver a pattern’s various parts in one file.

@kmf

I might even be able to figure out where it fits in the overall structure of the seamly program

Well for starters a new “import” menu item would needed to be added to mainwindow.ui with the code for the QAction in mainwindow.cpp… which probably be just setting the background of the view window. That’s easy… again the question is this just an import to trace on and not save?.. or to save it? - not so easy.

[Grace]

@MrDoo

I have a few lines of code that can be used to add an image as a background. Let me know if this would be useful.

Hi, I’m not running from source but I’m really interested in using these few lines of code. Is there anyway that I can use it, too?

Hi, @AVI I don’t have the book so I tried out your .pdf and here is my .val and .vit. <a class=“attachment” Kristina Shin Basic Bra measurements.vit (790 Bytes) <a class=“attachment” Kristina Shin Basic Bra Pattern.val (29.4 KB)

I guess it worked out pretty well.

I do prefer the free tutorial on underwired bras I posted quite low down in this link a while back:

Bra pattern?

I did a tutorial on how to draft an underwire bra Here are the files, if they will help you. I haven’t printed or tested the pattern in any way. Basic Underwire Bra.val (31.2 KB) Bra.vit (1.4 KB) I used the instruction on this site: http://web.archive.org/web/20130115080343/http://www.patternschool.com/?page_id=230 [image] I hope this helps

but Which explained all about the wires and cup sizes and these are brought into the .vit file. I’m sure one could create a multisize measurements file but it would be easier to create .vit files for all the different sizes needed.

[AVI]

Hi Grace,

thanks for trying it out. It looks pretty good. (In case you are actually planning on making it, C1 to C5 looks too long on the upper cradle)

An you’re right, making different vit files would be easier for this.

[MrDoo]

Okay, after a fair bit of experimentation the smallest change I could make that would show a useful background image is as follows:

mainwindow.h:59

#include <QGraphicsSvgItem> //JD
#include <QSvgRenderer> //JD

mainwindow.h:78

class QGraphicsSvgItem; //JD
class QSvgRenderer;//JD

mainwindow.cpp:2331 actiondraw() After these:

ui->actionDraw->setChecked(true);
ui->actionDetails->setChecked(false);
ui->actionLayout->setChecked(false);  

Add:

       QSvgRenderer *wallpaperRenderer = new QSvgRenderer(QLatin1String("/mnt/hgfs/sandpitShare/L008/backdrop1.svg"));
       QGraphicsSvgItem *wallpaper = new QGraphicsSvgItem();
       wallpaper->setSharedRenderer(wallpaperRenderer);
       wallpaper->setZValue(-2.0); //so that it is behind the Seamly drawing.
       wallpaper->setScale( 91.4/68.53 );
       sceneDraw->addItem(wallpaper);

So you can see that I’m hard coding the path to the image file. I’m using an SVG, I’ve not tried with other images but I’m guessing that you could do similar with a PNG by changing the above accordingly.

You can also see that I’m setting a seeming arbitrary scaling.

To get started, set the scaling to 1, and define a set of perpendicular lines in Seamly2D of the dimensions your image should be. Determine how big your image IS being rendered and then set the scaling to match. I was baffled as to why this isn’t consistent across images.

Once you have done the above then you’ll have a useful background image in drawing mode (only) that pans and zooms with your pattern. Just what you need if you are trying to design a parameterised version of an existing pattern.

To turn this into a proper feature I would suggest that we keep it as simple as possible. Allow the user to select a file, offset and scale. The user can then tweak the offset and scale values until the image is the right size and where they want it.

If we wanted to go any further than that, then having Seamly remember the file, offset, and scale that you are using as a wallpaper would be good - obviously this would be a file format change, albeit a simple one.

[kmf]

I am fairly sure I remember that there is already a documented issue that requests a new feature that is something like this. In a few days when I return home, I will go through the issue list and point it out here. @Douglas, you pose the pertinant questions and the result of discussion about them should be added to the issue description for the person who ends up implementing the new feature.

[mykookoon]

ooooohhhhh im thrilled…thats exactly what im lookig for…you are my angel of the day…ill try it out at the weekend…lots of love and thank youuuuuuu

[slspencer]

Thank you @AVI !!! I made this a banner topic, and will post it on Facebook.

[AVI]

Can you scroll down in your formula window?

As you can see, after all the A’s you will find the B’s

[Grace]

Using the tool Point at ‘Distance and Angle’, create point B12, 0.8cm distant from B5 using the angle of segment 4 of the curve B7 to B5 and adding on 180 degrees.

I hope this helps

[AVI]

A little tip: you can use the tool pointer (white arrow) to drag the point labels away from the point. That way you will not have point labels on top of each other.

On your drawing the ending of the curve seems to have a little bent in it at point B5 Can you check if your handle for the curve B7_B5 is pointing downward in point B5?

Here you can see the handle is almost pointing straight down.

[AmandaClarice]

How did you come up with formula that leads to the purple Arc line as shown in attached Arc, A1, @ IBA-0.3, 210,225 Measurements @IBA Inner Bust Arc, Calculated Value 9

I’m making a 34 Soft Bra and using many principals for the 34B underwire. Please bare with me as I come to terms in understanding logic.

[AVI]

The formula is given in the awesome book “Patternmaking for Underwear Design” by Kristina Shin as this tutorial was just meant to translate the manual drafting proces to Seamly2D. The degrees I just picked to make sure it would cross the horizontal line coming from point A.

[AVI]

I’m not really sure what it is you want to do. Which one is the 55mm line?

slspencer posted a video on how to use the move tool, please note this will move points and curves, you will have to draw new lines.

How do you move something?

There is a “move” tool. And the Wiki has absolutely no information on it. I’ve tried all the usual things to get it to work - click and drag, select the arc and drag … nothing affects the object.

If you want to pivot, you can use the rotate tool

How to Rotate a Dart, video

Here is a video of using the Rotate tool to rotate a dart. To select multiple points in the Rotate tool, hold down the Ctrl key. When you have selected points press Enter. (One point will appear to remain selected after pressing Enter.) Select the dart point as the origin of rotation (or other point for rotation - for example, sometimes the bust point is not used as the dart point so in that case select the dart point as origin.) For the angle, you don’t have to type in (AngleLine_P1_P2 - AngleL…

[kmf]

@AmandaClarice I have a hint that might help you with the move tool. As with all of the tools, look at the left hand lower corner for the prompt to tell you what to do next.

to use the move tool, you must have at least one object (a line will do) in a pattern piece in draw mode. Click “Operations” to open up that sub menu of tools. Click on the move tool icon (Indicated by the hand drawn red arrow on this screenshot)

In the very bottom left of the main Seamly2d window, you should see a prompt that says select one of more objects… You can click on an object (or objects) to select it, then press the ENTER key to confirm the selection. After that, it should be intuitive to move your mouse pointer until the object is where you want it. There will be additional prompts if you want to define an exact “sticking angle” for the move. A mouse (left) click should stop the movement and display a dialog box. It you are happy with the position, simply click “OK”