I am still not satisfied with my baseline sloper bodice block with the mccunn method because I want to make it completely scalable. I will test it with the measurements of different humans and expect to also be able to shrink it to fit 3d printed 1/4 scale doll models. Mccunn has a table that he uses for the dart width, and after reading through the text and trying several ways I believe the most accurate way to make a parametric pattern is to use a calculated angle (in degrees) based on the difference between bust circumference and lowbust circumference.
The process seems a bit cumbersome if I need to calculate the angle every time I use it. It is clear to me that I can create a variable in the .vit file to represent this but I was wondering if this a valid use of the measurement file.
I am still trying to make a parametric representation of the dart width. McCunn provides a printed table in his book and the table is only useful for a DD cup size. I create patterns for more than one person, including myself, who need larger cup sizes.
I would suggest an increment in the pattern file based on the differences between those two measurements from the .vit file. This way you can use the pattern with any .vit file provided that it contains the base measurements you need. I would suggest that the meaning of your derived angles/distances are particular to the pattern and so should be within the pattern. You should be able to derive a formula that mimics the lookup table that McCunn specifies. I’m looking to do something similar with the Haslam method which starts with a set of printed points that need formularising.
Isn’t bra size the diffence in inches (2.5cm) between G03 highbust-circ and G04 bust-circ.
for CM -
SIZE = ( (G04 - G03 ) 2.5 ) * formula_factor + ease ??
thanks @MrDoo, I agree that it is important to be able to use other .vit files so that is a good argument for not defining a special variable that is stored in the .vit file. My dilemma is that I was trying to derive the size of the dart ONCE and not have to repeatedly perform that calculation. I am accustomed to use of a temporary variable when I use a programming language, so wanted to have a place to store an intermediate value and reuse it in several formulas that I use to draft the pattern. It may get easier once I actually figure out how to generalize the drafted the pattern with a formula instead of that table.
It is not a lookup table, it is a picture that you are encouraged to use (trace) when drafting a paper pattern. I want a pattern that is scalable to doll sizes as well as a wide range of human sizes. i have attached a picture of the table. I figured out that it uses a 3degree baseline and adds 6 degrees for each inch of difference between the highbust and bust. the problem with using an inch or using cm is that is not scalable. I will experiment some more with different sizes and come up with a formula based on the relative difference in the two measurements and not an absolute difference.
I had to use a physical protractor to figure out that the increment was 6 degrees. And I had to print one out to use it. I looked in 3 stores and was unable to find a plastic protractor like I once used. Computers are good until the EMP
@bamba my issue is determining the cup size for a pattern to fit a body outside the range where a one inch or 2.5 cm difference is the correct increment. For example, I want to create a pattern that will work on 1/4 scale dolls. I also have already tackled this problem when working with members of the chorus at the theater where I create costumes for women with a bust circumference over 65 inches (and a waist over 56 inches). Commercial patterns don’t work well for these women and patterns I have drafted with other software don’t work well either. I am sure that the issue is that the commonly used “one inch” or “2.5 cm” increment is not valid and that the cup size should actually be a ratio, not an absolute number
Does Valentina allow using G04 and G03 in the formula? I have been typing out “highbust-circ” and “bust-circ” and my original question was based on getting tired of that much typing. I was looking for a way to calculate SIZE one time and reuse it.
Do you know that increment supports writing formulas too?
no, I have not tried to use increment yet. good to know
That’s because instead of learning you spend time on writing posts here. No one will help you because you did not do your home work. People already said use increments.
Does it support writing formulas in Standard tables too? I had a look but only find it in Individual tables.
Multi Size tables (we are trying to go away from deprecated Standard table name ) do not support formulas. Actually they do, but do that internally.
Possibly missing the / sign here.
( bust_circ - lowbust_circ ) / 2.54 * 6 = number of degrees
And follow Dismine’s cue and store this as an increment, e.g. BustDartAngle
You can then use this in as many places as you need in the pattern, and come back and tweak the formula if required.
Hi, @kmf, I really don’t see your problem. If you use the True Dart tool and you have your increments in dart size set up in the standard measurements, you should get the results that you want.
See the tutorial on using the True Dart tool here:
In the Multisize the dart is set at 7cm you can set it at any size you wish and add increments from there.
I hope this helps.
@grace there are many ways to draft a bodice. The issue is that I am attempting to be as close as possible to the instructions given in Don McCunn’s book.
you said “That’s because instead of learning you spend time on writing posts here. No one will help you because you did not do your home work. People already said use increments.”
as a matter of fact, I was just being polite when I said “good to know” about using increments. I understood that people had already said “use increments” What you and those people apparently do not understand was that does not answer my original question. Perhaps I did not explain the original question well enough. Thank you everybody for your input and if I have an additional question I will start a new thread.