Kimono A.sm2d (18.9 KB) Kimono A.smis (1.2 KB)
As a Pattern Making rule;
Sleeve Cap Curve Length = Total Armhole Length on Body Patterns + Sleeve Cap Ease
Sleeve Cap ease is 1.5 cm in general, but It changes depending to pattern and/or fabric.
I draw a curve with Spline Fixed tool using the nodes A60, A66, A68, A58, A69, A67, A61.
These points are drawn with the formulas based on my Pattern Making classes I attended.
The sleeve cap measure drawn with this method is 91,5 cm
Total Armhole Curve measured on the body patterns are 71,9 cm (36,2 + 35,7 = 71,9)
There is
91,5 - 71,9 = 19,6 cm difference.
Question 1) Can we add constraint to control the measurement of the curve?
Question 2) Should I decrease the Sleeve Cap measurement by trying to adjust the control points (nodes) I created to the desired value? And expect the Sleeve Cap measurement will become Total Armhole Measurement + Ease (1,5 cm etc.) (In the safe area, fit-wise) in “Grading!”
Question 3) Suggestions?
Question 4) If there is a tutorial for drawing a Sleeve Cap which fits to the Total Armscye I want to see your method as well.
Note : Sleeve Cap looks like skewed here for the sake of example. I’ll draw the curve in fractions and add more control points in Spline Fixed Tool to control the sleeve cap tip to get better results.