Controlling The Sleeve Cap Measure To Make It Fit To The Total Armscye Measure

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Kimono A.sm2d (18.9 KB) Kimono A.smis (1.2 KB)

As a Pattern Making rule;

Sleeve Cap Curve Length = Total Armhole Length on Body Patterns + Sleeve Cap Ease

Sleeve Cap ease is 1.5 cm in general, but It changes depending to pattern and/or fabric.

I draw a curve with Spline Fixed tool using the nodes A60, A66, A68, A58, A69, A67, A61.

These points are drawn with the formulas based on my Pattern Making classes I attended.

The sleeve cap measure drawn with this method is 91,5 cm

Total Armhole Curve measured on the body patterns are 71,9 cm (36,2 + 35,7 ‎ = 71,9)

There is

91,5 - 71,9 ‎ = 19,6 cm difference.

Question 1) Can we add constraint to control the measurement of the curve?

Question 2) Should I decrease the Sleeve Cap measurement by trying to adjust the control points (nodes) I created to the desired value? And expect the Sleeve Cap measurement will become Total Armhole Measurement + Ease (1,5 cm etc.) (In the safe area, fit-wise) in “Grading!”

Question 3) Suggestions?

Question 4) If there is a tutorial for drawing a Sleeve Cap which fits to the Total Armscye I want to see your method as well.

Note : Sleeve Cap looks like skewed here for the sake of example. I’ll draw the curve in fractions and add more control points in Spline Fixed Tool to control the sleeve cap tip to get better results.

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That is too much ease, unless it is designed that way. Maybe you are reading the instruction wrong or your measurement is wrong.

I will gradually reduce the sleeve width, or reduce the cap height, or both until I get my desired length. Which one to choose depends on your design.

I will not use fixed spline to draw the sleeve cap curve. I will use interactive splines or curve so that I can wiggle the curve a bit for better shape. The exact shape of the curve is far less important than the width, height and measurement of the sleeve cap curve.

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Now I fixed this pattern. It was far from right on the first post.

I expressed the control points as variables. I did not try Grading yet but I hope It will be in shape.

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I’m sorry I’m only replying to this now.

I’ve had a look at your pattern and this is what I’d like to explain:

  1. The cap height is best calculated in relation to the armhole height.
  2. The cap width must always fit the biceps.
  3. If you make the cap height higher, then the width must be less and if you make the cap height lower, then the width must be more.
  4. The cap height must always be in proportion to the armhole curve. If the armhole curve is only slight, then the cap height is also slight, if the armhole curve is pronounced, then the cap height is also pronounced.

With all of this in mind, I have changed the cap width formulas - I added *2 to the formulas you had - and added a new point with a formula for the cap height which is based on the average armhole height.

I’ve redrawn the curves.

Since you have a very fixed cap width, I have adjusted only the cap height to get a very shallow sleeve cap that should suit your very shallow armholes, leaving less than 1cm difference between the armholes curves and the cap curve as you can see in the image:

image
image758×409 27 KB

Here is your pattern back:

Kimono A.sm2d (20.3 KB)

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