Discussion about a new Seamly pattern drafting system

Patterns
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The discussion started in this thread: Pattern System and we aligned to continue it in an own thread.

The intention is to discuss a “new” pattern drafting system that could be implemented into Seamly or at least include some base patterns in the Seamly installation.

There are many pattern systems out there, very old ones, rather new ones, very popular ones and underrated ones.

I personally use the Systemschnitt System, which is not well known. I also tried the popular (at least in Europe, but probably worldwide) Müller & Sohn / HAKA system.

Both work with a lot of assumptions and shortcuts to make the drafting easier. If you do the drafting with a program like Seamly, this has limited advantages, as you would only need to draft the thing once, and there could use as many measurements as possible to get the possibly best fit.

Therefore, proposal would be to take full advantage of the Seamly.me files and set up a system as precise as possible.

But how shall we start?

Can we just collect all the systems out there with the advantages / disadvantages (of course, personal view!) to grain out a method on how to best draft a base pattern?

Or do you think the workflow should be different?

Every view and comment is appreciated!

I do not know exactly the policy on copying single pages from those drafting books, so we have some examples of every system. Is that okay and still covered by “citation” concept, or is this already regarded as violation of copyright?

Then everyone would need to redraft an own example…

I have most experience in men’s trousers and would love to start with this one. Could give an Example of Systemschnitt and HAKA.

The following Thesis might also be interesting in this context, it can be downloaded free:

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I’m thinking… … …

If you can find an out-of-copyright book, something like Vincent or Croonborg (but these may be a bit old), figure out the basic pattern in Seamly - both the measurements (individual & multisize) and the drafting, test the patterns, then we have a starting point.

You can either give these to @Douglas to upload to join the rest of the examples or you can write the instructions on how to draft them to achieve the results that you’ve achieved.

Either way, some sort of instructions will need to be written to advise people how to modify the patterns and add to them to create their own patterns.

I think this is a good point to start the discussions.

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The Supreme system: AKA Bluebook

The Blue Book of Men’s Tailoring: by Croonborg, Frederick T

New supreme system: AKA Redbook

New supreme system for production of men’s garments

In a nutshell… the Bluebook patterns are for “dropped shoulder” style jackets. The Redbook patterns are for a normal more modern shoulder jacket. In either case these are very period styled mens suits, and as such are much more tighter fitting than modern suits. The systems are similar in concept to every other system out there… what differs are the proportions.

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Does Systemschnitt has an English Version?

I bit far-fetched but I hope Seamly2D can collab with some newer authors, because ultimately people nowadays want to make T-shirt, Hoodie and Jeans which is not available on older books. I know Clo3D has work with Korean author Myoungok at some point.

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Not sure, but on the other hand, there is very few description in there, so a translator will do the trick. Here the explanation about the 2 books:

Schiele Schön

This system is from the 1990ies, so there are modern parts, also bath suits and quite some children stuff is in there.

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Thanks for the Link, I will take a look. Many coats there, but also trousers. Curious how they construct it.

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So my take would be to construct a basic pattern in Seamly according to the system and write down the instructions on my own. So we already would have a basic pattern with instructions in Seamly and need not care about copyright…

Will take some time as I am presently very busy with other non-sewing projects…

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That academia.edu portal is nice they always send me new PDFs: Basics Fashion Design 03~Construction [2009]

Do these links work for you? Or is there the need to register first?

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