How to remove darts from Bodice Sloper

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Hey all,

Do you guys know how to remove the darts from a Woven Bodice Sloper to turn it into a Dartless Sloper or a T-shirt pattern for Woven fabrics? Also, how much more ease would I need to add? I am using the drafting book that Suzy Furrer wrote, but she doesn’t talk about this.

Thanks

Medha

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One way would be to rotate the shoulder dart closed, opening up a dart at the armpit. Then extend the side seam straight down the length that you need and curve the hemline from the center to the side seam.

If it’s a T-shirt, extend the shoulder seam to just over the tip of the shoulder, redraw the armhole to a much less fitted curve and draw a straight side seam down to the center front length. Repeat on the back bodice, matching the shoulder and side seams.

Lower the cap height on the sleeve by the extra amount added to the shoulder length and then deduct another 2cm or so. Widen the sleeve width by this same 2cm or so and, if you drafted the sleeve cap curve nicely, it should be a much shallower & gentler curve that will fit the new armhole. Draw in the rest of the sleeve to the length that you require.

For a body hugging blouse, the same ease will apply as for a leotard where one would use a negative ease according to the stretch in the fabric.

For a T-shirt, ease is a design feature, so you can change it to anything from 0 to 2.5cm or more, if you wish. It depends on how you want it to fit.

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Hi, Grace!

Thanks so much for responding.

I don’t get what you mean by this. How does adding an armhole dart affect the side?

Thanks for the information about the T-shirt!! I overlooked the fit part of it and was only focusing on removing the darts, so thanks for reminding me :sweat_smile:.

Okay, thank you this was all very helpful!!

Medha

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While looking through the internet I found and used this method to remove the darts in the front: How to remove Bust Darts and do a Flat Bust Adjustment -

But I couldn’t find out how to remove the darts in the back. I’m just telling you this so you know what I have tried.

This is the file I created so far: No Dart Woven.sm2d (137.7 KB)

This is the Measurement File: measurements medha nov 24.smis (2.9 KB)

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The waist darts don’t feature in the T-shirt, so you can just ignore them, as long as your shoulder slope is correct and you extend it to cover the top of the arm, the shoulder dart doesn’t feature, either. All you need is the neck, the center lines, the shoulder line, the armhole & the side seam. (Unless you really want to get smart & make a fitted T-shirt that you won’t be able to climb into :grin:)

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Okay, haha, you stated that so clearly this was exactly what I needed!!

Thanks so much. You are always so helpful!

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Assuming that you didn’t accidentally write “Woven” instead of “Knit,” I’d recommend a minimum of 4in/10cm ease, just so that you can peal the shirt over your head with your arms straight up, assuming that your circumference around head & arms is not too much more than your bustline. A good flowing shirt-weight fabric should still look okayish with 1ft/30cm ease, especially if worn as a Tunic (belted.)

:unicorn:

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:rofl: Well caught, @Pneumarian , I completely missed that.

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Yeah, I did mean Woven. Thanks for the estimate! Yes, the ease being enough for me to fit into the garment without zippers was a concern for me, so thank you! I was worried that adding too, much ease would make it too droopy or look like its a size too big, but now that you mention tunics and a whole foot of ease I realize there is a lot of room for how much ease I can add.

Thanks again!

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