Hi Folks,
I have a more general question not really related to the application itself. But since you’re not only prgrammers but sewers as well, I’ll try.
My question is: Can I take the same pattern for the sleeve to make the inner lining, or do I need to modifiy it somehow. Below you find my sleeve pattern.
Many thanks for your help. I hope it’s not too off topic
It depends on the fabric that you’re using. If the outer fabric is very bulky, you may want to make the lining a little smaller in size - if the fabric isn’t bulky, then the drafted sleeve will be fine. And then, at the wrist, you’ll want take off a few centimetres (5 or 10) on the lining fabric and make those few centimetres in the outer fabric so that the lining isn’t visible during wear. so you’ll need to make separate pattern pieces for the lining.
Other than that, I normally use the same pattern draft to make the lining pattern.
@Douglas has a lot more experience with jackets and suits, so perhaps he will varify what I’ve told you.
Yes… Grace is correct in that it sort of depends. Depending on the cuff - whether you do a vented opening or not will determine the lining at the cuff. That is you don’t need the extension on the lining for a vent. Also the length doesn’t need to be as long as you’re folding the hem up, and you don’t need all that extra on the lining. In many cases though I would layout several layers of fabric and lining, mark and cut all at the same time, and in the case of any vent extension, the sewers could just cut it off.
Another consideration is the sleeve cap. If you use thick shoulder pads - you will want to shorten the cap on the lining a bit, as with any circle and the pi factor - the radius is smaller on the inside or in this case the underside of the shoulder pad. But… then that all depends on whether your machine sewing or hand sewing the sleeves in. If hand sewing you can just make it fit by sewing more SA in. A lot of times we would machine sew the bottom half, and then finish the cap by hand. I should note that’s when we baste the lining armhole to the fabric… then set the sleeve… then put the sleeve lining in. This way locks the sleeve lining to the coat, so the lining doesn’t pull out when removing the coat. If it’s just a cheap jacket, we’d sew the fabric shell, the lining shell and just put the 2 together. It’s all about how much time you can afford to spend.
The other thing to consider is how are you sewing the lining, and what the seam allowance is. Commercial jackets usually just 4 or 5 thread overlock the linings, so the SA only needs to be 3/8". Since in the costume biz we always needed to alter, we always just straight stitched the linings in case it needs to be let out. In fact for most custom jobs we always used 1" center back and side seams.
And the last thing I can think of… and it’s related to the body and not the sleeves… if the jacket hem is to be felled, the lining is usually 3/4" shorter.
Sleeve lining needs ease. The reason is that you do not want the lining determining or controlling the silhouette of your garment and lining will shrink over time. I always make the sleeve lining about 1cm to 1/2 inch bigger in width. Length is needed as well, probably .75 cm to 1 cm and it is usually held in position by tacking the lining and fabric seam allowance together. You should turn the sleeve inside out and the lining should be just big enough to lie smoothly around the sleeve at the wrist…
