Need help with puffed sleeve hoodie pattern design

Hi everyone,

I am in the process of creating a hoodie pattern and I am having trouble with the sleeves. I want to create a puffed sleeve with a unique design, but I am struggling to avoid creasing at the edge of the sleeves. I have attached a picture to give you an idea of what I am looking to achieve.

I was hoping that someone with experience in pattern making could help me figure out how to create this design without having any creasing on the sleeves. I would really appreciate any advice or tips you could offer.

Thank you in advance for your help!

Best regards, Théo

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Wenn du die Weite nur im Bereich des Ellebogen oder kurz darunter haben möchtest, musst du Teilungsnaähte einzeichnen und immer auf der Höhe wo du Weite brauchst einen Bogen ziehen…und immer darauf achten dass zusammengehörende Nähte die gleiche Länge haben und anschließend den Saum und Armloch ausgleichen. Die Teilungsnähte kannst du zeichnen wie es dir gefällt. Auf die Schnelle: Ärmel


Hi @theopro

Here’s one approach to solve the problem. If this doesn’t apply to your pattern, upload your .val & .vit files and we’ll help out.

  1. In SeamlyMe
  • Add the ‘wrist_circ’ measurement
  1. In Measurements->Variables
  • Create ‘WristEase’ = 1.5
  • Create ‘WristWidth’ = (wrist_circ * #WristEase)
  1. In Draft mode blocks:
  • Set the ‘Sleeve’ wristline width to #WristWidth
  • Set the ‘Cuff’ width to #WristWidth
  • Adjust the #WristEase value up or down until you like the fit

Hello and welcome, @theopro

Looking at the correct images, it seems to me that there is a guzzet built into the sleeve from just below the elbow to the wrist band. This serves as a kind of a dart which narrows the fabric from the width at the elbow down in a curving manor to deminish the width at the wrist.


The curve of the gusset, where it gets sewn onto the sleeve, must be the same length as the curve on the sleeve, but it must form a dart, as will the outer curve.

I hope this helps :slight_smile:

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Thanks for your answer.

I’ve reduced the with and it removed the pleat. But now I’m struggling to achieve a tulip-shaped sleeve. The only partially relevant result I’ve obtained (example 2) looks okay only from the front angle. I’ve tried playing around with the number of seams, the thickness and stiffness of the fabric, but I just can’t seem to get it right. I’ve attached an image with the examples I’ve tried in the software called “Clo3D”. Can anyone offer any suggestions or tips to help me out?

Thanks in advance!


A tulip-shaped sleeve is about 3/4 of the sleeve from the left and 3/4 of the sleeve from the right individually cut out and sewn together overlapping in their correct positions to make up the whole sleeve.

These are only rough estimates that you will need to refine according to your pattern design which may need widening of the sleeve cap to incorporate gathering.

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Du must dreidimensionaler denken. Stelle dir einen ball vor der an einem Ende etwas abgeschnitten ist. Das ist dein Ärmelsaum. Wenn du dir jetzt die breiteste Stelle deines Balles vornimmst, musst du diese Weite jetzt auch in den Schnitt reinbringen. Wenn du wie in Bild 2 die Weite nur an zwei Teilen unterbringst kann keine harmonische Rundung über den ganzen Arm erzeugt werden. Ist es diese Optik, die du erzeugen wolltest? Wenn du diesen Eindruck bis zur Armkugel bringen möchtest, kannst du die Teilungsnaht weglassen.


As @Scholli said, your sleeve end is basically a modified ball. Here’s a ball pattern I made: ball.val (16.5 KB) Hopefully looking at it will help you see what you need to do. The A (Globe) block is probably the most helpful, since Line_A1_A2 is diameter divided by the number of divisions of the curved plane. I have it at five because two would be too flat, (as you’ve seen,) three would be too angular, & four would have too much symmetry along the lines for my taste. Five breaks expectation without going crazy. Yes, I’m probably over-thinking it.

If you put a curved dart into both halves of sleeve pattern 2, you’d probably do fine.



@theopro How cool! Are you taking inspiration from the Huni Hoodie? I’ve started on a similar route. I was wondering if you could help me with the hood details!

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