Long time lurker here. I just wanted to let you all know that Guido Hofenbitzer’s “Grundschnitte und Modellentwicklung” has just been released in English and is called “Patternmaking for Fashion 1.”
For those of you who are unfamiliar with Hofenbitzer, he is a tailor and teacher in Germany and uses a pattern making system based on Mueller und Sohn, with the author’s tweaks and improvements. His 2 books are considered by some to be the best current basic pattern making books for their price range.
His explanations and illustrations are very detailed.
I especially like his use of “Fit Categories” with precise amounts and locations of ease for different types of garments from corsets to coats. Incorporating the Fit Category ease amounts into my Bodice Sloper pattern increments in Seamly2D/Valentina allows me to easily switch from a close-fitting sloper pattern to a looser fitting blouse, for example.
I loved his method so much that I studied enough German to make my own translations of many of the chapters of his books! Enough of that!
So, if you are interested in a detailed, up-to-date, less expensive version of Mueller und Sohn, IN ENGLISH, you can find the book at the publisher’s site
Also there are many youtube videos on the author’s site (in German). If you click on the close captioning (CC) you can translate to your language. Guy Ho - YouTube
It looks like Hofenbitzer divided his book Grundschnitte und Modellentwicklungen into 2 volumes in the English translation, of which the first has been published. Also, he states that his book on fit problems, Maßschnitte und Passform, will also be translated into English and will be Volume 3 of the series to be published in 2023. This is from the preface of the English translation:
This 1st volume Patternmaking for Fashion volume 1, Basic Practice contains
General explanations on creating a pattern
Taking measurements
Standards for pattern drawing
All the important basic patterns
Established basic pattern-conversions
Basic shapes and dividing seams
Neckline design and darts
Many established model developments, where sleeves, pocket and collar designs are demonstrated and described in detail
Developments of facings and linings
The 2nd volume of Patternmaking for Fashion volume 2, Professional Practice will contain
Overview to the basic pattern of the 1st volume
Basic pattern for plus size figures
Basic patterns and models for sportswear, lingerie and unisex clothing
A collection of common collar models
A collection of common hoods
A collection of common sleeve models
Established model developments
Size chart for plus size figures and other templates
This note about the 3rd volume is on p17 within the text about taking measurements:
The 3rd volume Patternmaking for Fashion volume 3, Customized Patterns and Fit, Master Practice will contain comprehensive information and step-by-step instructions for handling problems with regard to fit. Estimated publish date in English 2023
Also lots of downloadable resources on his website www.pattern-max.de including German measurement tables, his ease chart for the different fit classes, and downloadable bodice, skirt and pants slopers in PDF format in 1:4 and 1:1 scaling.
Wow I just looked at the downloadable ressources, thanks !
Interesting things, though my technical german-to-french/english lexicon might not be as sharp as needed.
I will look for ordering the books
I bought the book “Patternmaking for fashion 1 Basic practice”, so beautiful book !
But do you know if the 2nd book translated in English has been published ? and maybe the 3rd book as well, because I didn’t see these books on Internet.
You are right. Strange. I know the other books were also available in English.
The German version has been edited and expanded.
I would guess that they are still working on the translation. There are also no longer Italian, French or Spanish versions.
Thank you for hinting, I do not know the guy even as I am German.
We have quite some Müller & Sohn Books and Booklets (from the German “Rundschau”, which is kind of the German Tailor interest Group publication) and tested quite some patterns of that system, but for me it did not work (very tall and thin guy).
I came to Schiele & Schön’s “Systemschnitt” in the 90ies, and this is really amazing. Very easy to draft, much easier than Müller & Sohn, but much better fit at least for me.
That may have to do with the fact that the HAKA (Müller & Sohn) Pattern manuals I have are also from the 90ies and more represent the wide fit style of the late 80ies and early 90ies, whereas the Systemschnitt seems to be more modern and with tighter fit. But that’s only my assumption.
Interesting that even the used books of Hofenblitzer are as expensive as the new ones. Systemschnitt books were expensive as new ones, but you can get them now quite cheap as new and used ones.
Keine Ahnung ob es das Buch zu kaufen gibt oder nur in der FH Bibliothek. Ist von Dozenten an der FH in Mönchengladbach entwickelt worden. Schaue das Du die neueste Version bekommst, und die hat noch sehr viele Fehler.
You would be correct. Like everything clothing goes in cycles. Turn of the (20th) century was tight fitting… then clothing became casual or “leisure wear”, and kept getting looser fitting. In the 80’s the wide shoulders was a thing especially in women’s jackets. Things have swung back where jackets are a tighter fit. i.e less ease. Vougue men’s patterns got to the point where there was as much as 6-7" of ease in a jacket where if you normally wear a size 42, you could easiy use the size 40 as there was so much ease.
Hmm, bei der Suche nach Optikon kommt immer nur der Hofenblitzer. Und nur Damenmode. Bringt mir nichts. Bleibe daher erstmal bei Systemschnitt. Das System ist so simpel, dass da nichtmal groß Text dabeisteht. Was anscheinend oft bemängelt wird wie ich gerade gelesen habe. Schade, wäre mal interessant zu sehen was die mit OPTIKON anders machen.
While Googling around for this answer, I found the following paper from my University:
Yes, definitely! So we can again use older books and systems that are en vogue again! Only new fabric and materials are not taken care of in those old books (stretch, Jersey etc.).
Of course since I operated a costume shop for years, period clothing was a big part of what we did. It’s why I’m so familar with the Supreme System Blue & Red.
Actually one of the last shows we worked on was the tour of Annie - for which we made most all men’s costumes - where the livery tail coats were based on a pattern from the Blue book.
