New user - using seamly and making precise curves and underwire questions

[Grace]

Hi and welcom @Ailurus

I’ll try to reply to you:

1

@Ailurus

I need to make sure my curves are precise. Inner bust arc, outer bust arc, horizontal bust, wire length, apex… I am really struggling with easily making curves that are the right measurement.

This is a chat that helped me to make very acceptable curves: Another "very mathematical" way of making curves! - #10 by Grace

And this one, too: Curves with Formulas - #29 by KeithFromCanada

I haven’t tried the methods on the small bra pieces, so I wish you luck

2

@Ailurus

To add to this, how the heck should I be drafting the underwire + splay, to get a reasonable approximation of the shape with the precise measurements.

Haha, yes, it gets like that. I suggest making these lines in yellow and dotted so they’re not in your face all the time. I did the free online tutorial which I posted the results of and the link in this chat: Bra pattern? - #13 by Grace - it’s about half way down the page but it may help you to read most of the chat

And you can place them in a group once you’re done with them and close the ‘Eye’ on the bottom right of the screen to hide them from view.

And here is @AVI’s tutorial using the Kristina Shin method: Kristina Shin Basic underwire bra tutorial with all the discussions.

3

@Ailurus

The Shin method of drafting has you draft the underwire, then measure up something like 1/8" on the inside of the underwire, and then continue drafting using this new line.

You can try using the Move tool which will create a copy of the selected and move it to a new location.

4

@Ailurus

if I make a pattern piece, I can’t refer to a newer pattern pieces measurements. For example, I made bottom cups and started the top cup, then moved to making the band+cradle. The top cup needs measurements from the cradle, but I cannot refer to that newer pattern piece when I go back to the older upper cup. I know this now… but it would be good to be able to somehow have an “update” button to make the latest measurements available for older pattern pieces.

Hmmm, yes… You’ll have to delete what you did on the top cup and start over after you’ve done the cradle.

There is a method of selecting a point in ‘History’ and inserting a few lines and points before the parts that need reference to them, but it’s very finicky and could end in an error, so I do suggest you save often and even, perhaps save the file to a new name before even attempting this. Here’s a link to where I explained it previously: Hacking Points in Pattern Files - #2 by Grace

5

@Ailurus

during the details and layouts phase, what is the recommended method for seam allowance, so I get the edges of pieces squared better? My first try resulted in the bottom inner and outer cup having rounded edges which gave me difficulty when sewing. I am used to making the edges straight so I can more easily see and match the 1/4" edge.

My preferred angle setting is ‘By Length’, which I used in my trial in the previous reference. However, you should play with the settings to get it the way you want, as explained in this chat: Unexpected behavior when altering seam allowance between two points.

I hope these help you. Please don’t hesitate to ask if something isn’t as clear as I expect it be. Above all, have fun. I’m also loving this program