Pattern Construction with Müller and son

Patterns
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Here is the list of measurements given in Müller and Sohn, conveniently translated by G to english:

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As Scholli pointed out the current “state of the art” in german education is the book from Guido Hofenbitzer, Europa Verlag. There is a german excerpt available online on their homepage which has the measurements and the measurement table with all the three/four-letter abbreviations too. See page 12ff of this pdf for the measurement descriptions and page 19 for the measurement sheet used for tayloring classes here:

BTW: Here is the table of standard DOB measurements (Womens Clothing Charts) from 1994 as IMHO used by both Mueller and Sohn and Hofenbitzer as a basis for their patterns.

DOB*-Größentabelle der deutschen Damen-Konfektionsgrößen basierend auf den Reihenmessungen von 1994

G Größe Size 32 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52 54 56 58 60 G
KöH Körperhöhe Body height 168 KöH
BrU Brustumfang Chest circumference 76 80 84 88 92 96 100 104 110 116 122 128 134 140 146 BrU
uBrU Unterbrustumfang Underbust circumference 68 71 74 77 80 84 88 92 98 104 110 116 122 128 134 uBrU
TaU Taillenumfang Waist size 62 65 68 72 76 80 84 88 94,5 101 107,5 114 120,5 127 133,5 TaU
HüU Hüftumfang Hip Circumference 86 90 94 97 100 103 106 109 114 119 124 129 134 139 144 HüU
HaU Halsansatzumfang Neck length 34,2 34,8 35,4 36 36,6 37,2 37,8 38,4 39,6 40,8 42 43,2 44,4 45,6 46,8 HaU
HlB Halslochbreite Neck Hole Width 6,2 6,3 6,4 6,5 6,6 6,7 6,8 6,9 7,1 7,3 7,5 7,7 7,9 8,1 8,3 HlB
AlT Armlochtiefe Armhole depth 18,9 19,3 19,7 20,1 20,5 20,9 21,3 21,7 22,1 22,5 22,9 23,3 23,7 24,1 24,5 AlT
RüL Rückenlänge Back Length 41,4 41,4 41,4 41,6 41,8 42 42,2 42,4 42,7 43 43,3 43,6 43,6 43,6 43,6 RüL
7.HW bis Kniekehle 7th neck vertebrae to the knee pit 100,6 100,9 101,2 101,5 101,8 102,1 102,4 102,7 103,1 103,5 103,9 104,3 104,7 105,1 105,5
7.HW bis Fußsohle 7th neck vertebrae to the sole of the foot 146 146,3 146,6 146,9 147,2 147,5 147,8 148,1 148,5 148,9 149,3 149,7 150,1 150,5 150,9
HüT Hüfttiefe Hip depth 21 HüT
BrT Brusttiefe ohne HlB Chest depth without Neck Hole Width 25,7 26,5 27,3 28,1 28,9 29,7 30,5 31,3 32,5 33,7 34,9 36,1 37,3 38,5 39,7 BrT
VL Vorderlänge ohne HlB Front length without Neck Hole Width 43,9 44,3 44,7 45,3 45,9 46,5 47,1 47,7 48,8 49,9 51 52,1 52,9 53,7 54,5 VL
oRüB obere Rückenbreite (1⁄2) Upper Back width (1⁄2) 16,2 16,7 17,2 17,7 18,2 18,7 19,2 19,7 20,5 21,2 22 22,7 23,5 24,2 25 oRüB
RüB Rückenbreite (1⁄2) Back width (1⁄2) 15 15,5 16 16,5 17 17,5 18 18,5 19,2 19,9 20,6 21,3 22 22,7 23,4 RüB
ArD Armdurchmesser Arm Diameter 7,2 7,9 8,6 9,3 10 10,7 11,4 12,1 13,2 14,3 15,4 16,5 17,6 18,7 19,8 ArD
BrB Brustbreite (1⁄2) Chest width (1⁄2) 15,8 16,6 17,4 18,2 19 19,8 20,6 21,4 22,6 23,8 25 26,2 27,4 28,6 29,8 BrB
BrPA Brustpunktabstand (1⁄2) Breast point spacing (1⁄2) 7,6 8 8,4 8,8 9,2 9,6 10 10,4 11 11,6 12,2 12,8 13,4 14 14,6 BrPA
SuB Schulterbreite Shoulder width 11,9 12 12,1 12,2 12,4 12,6 12,8 13 13,2 13,4 13,6 13,8 14 14,2 14,4 SuB
SuWi Schulterwinkel in Grad Shoulder angle in degrees 20° SuWi
ArL Armlänge Arm length 59,4 59,6 59,8 60 60,2 60,4 60,6 60,8 61,1 61,4 61,7 62 62 62 62 ArL
OaU Oberarmumfang Upper arm circumference 25,6 26,2 26,8 28 29,2 30,4 31,6 32,8 34,6 36,4 38,2 40 41,8 43,6 45,4 OaU
HgU Handgelenkumfang Wrist Circumference 14,6 15 15,4 15,8 16,2 16,6 17 17,4 18 18,6 19,2 19,8 20,4 21 21,6 HgU
sTaH seitliche Taillenhöhe Lateral Waist height 106 sTaH
OsU Oberschenkelumfang Thigh circumference 50,2 52 53,8 55,6 57,4 59,2 61 62,8 65 67,2 69,4 71,6 73,8 76 78,2 OsU
SiH Sitzhöhe Seat height 24,9 25,3 25,7 26,1 26,5 26,9 27,3 27,7 28,3 28,9 29,5 30,1 30,7 31,3 31,9 SiH
SrH Schritthöhe Step height 81,1 80,7 80,3 79,9 79,5 79,1 78,7 78,3 77,7 77,1 76,5 75,9 75,3 74,7 74,1 SrH
FeU Fesselumfang Bondage 23,5 23,5 24 24,5 25 25,5 26 26,5 27 27,5 28 28,5 29 29,5 30 FeU
KoU Kopfumfang Head circumference 55,2 55,4 55,6 55,8 56 56,2 56,4 56,6 56,8 57 57,2 57,4 57,6 57,8 58 KoU
  • DOB = Damenoberbekleidung
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Here is the measurement form as a picture.

Guido_Hofenbitzer_Europa_62369-2
Guido_Hofenbitzer_Europa_62369-21920×2635 489 KB

But you can also check out the forms and tables from the book download section:

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Guido Hoffmiester has come out with an english book. He also has english versions of the charts. I cannot upload an attachment to show you since im a new user.

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Hello and welcome to the Seamly forum, @Rockstaryo

Yes, the English book came out a few years ago. It’s really very good.

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Welcome @Rockstaryo

This is just a security thing to help stop bots from posting with attachments. It changes for new users quickly… you just need to read a few topics and let some time pass and the level bumps up. I just checked and your level has already bumped up. You should be able to post attachments. :slightly_smiling_face:

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Be aware of the fact that u have to be certified by MS to teach it. Even docent at an university has to licenced. I would recommend to use Hofenbitzer. It is based on Optikon a system that fits to digital pattern making.

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Optikon / Hofbitzer and Mueller & Sohn sytems both use a few body measurements then calculate the remaining measurements using formulas based on standard measurement tables, e.g. body proportions. These measurements & calculations are used to create a coordinate system that links the human body to the flat pattern pieces. This is similar to many other patternmaking systems except these two systems use many more calculated secondary measurements.

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I believe this is false. You need their approval if you advertise it as their system and use their branding to suggest it is officially supported by them or offer “official courses” . Copywright laws do not cover mathematical formulas in the books, that would be like putting a ban on a basic law of phisics. So long as you do not use screenshots of the book of direct quotes you are allowed to use the system and share it.

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I wasn’t able to translate via google translate nor find the book in English.

Please, please might you upload the standard measurement chart for women?

Also, does this book show how to construct a basic bodice for women? My difficulty is how to measure-use armhole width with depth for an armhole.

Senior but newbie​:woozy_face:.

Thanks

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Hello and welcome to the Seamly forum, @Kate (from one senior to another :smile: )

Both M&S and Hofenbitzer are available online in English and will explain to you exactly how the measurements are taken, both in words and images. However, without the actual books, you may have problems creating other measurements that are based on the few measurements required, unless you already have the books memorized. And yes, both books for women will show how to construct a basic bodice.

Both use abbreviations to name the measurement areas & the calculated measurements have a slight variation to the abbreviation of the areas. While constructing, only the abbreviations are used in the instructions, so it’s best to create Custom measurement in SeamlyME and to avoid the Known measurements.

The armhole depth measurement is taken from the base of the neck at the back (7th vertebra) to a line passed directly under the armpits, taken at a 90° to the floor (straight down), following the curve of the back. This corresponds to H21 in SeamlyME.

The armhole width is taken in a straight line (not following the arm curvature) at the armfold level where it should be widest, from the front, to the back. This corresponds to L21 in SeamlyME.

Perhaps someone will be kind enough to share a SeamlyMe file with you but you’ll first need to get a book because M&S is different to GH.

I hope this helps you.

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