"Pattern Making System" question

Would still need a .vit for each system. Unless I misunderstand, I think Grace is thinking of creating a spreadsheet of the known measurements, and each system… where you can “check” each measurement that is used in a system column. Like comparing which features are included with different versions of a product.

Although theoretically if a master spreadsheet is produced, it could be possible to then “export” a .vit for any given Pattern System.

Hmmm… it could be possible to code a Pattern System manager, where a Tablewidget is used to store the measurements & systems, and you simply check the cell to include that measurement in a system. But… by the time I did that, others could hand create a .vit for each system.

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I had to take a second look today being more awake… and I’m still baffled. I screen capped the “hip_circ / seat” measurement the other night. from a build that was just compiled… and it now shows up as “hips / Hip circumference”. ??? Inexplicably the measurement file was not converted to a newer ver, - where apparently changes were made to some names… like hip_circ became hips… etc.

That being said… IMO it’s an oversight to remove the term “seat” as next to waist, rise and inseam, it’s the one of the most common terms when speaking of men’s pants. I think it’s a gender thing… where with men it’s “seat” and with women it’s “hips”.

hips

No… you are correct. You can’t edit the full name or the description. At least the fields should be greyed out to indicate you can’t edit them.

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Update… I got (part of) it… I changed the gui language to French to see what fields are being translated, and then switched back to what I thought I had before “American English”. Canadian English translates as “hip_circ”, American Engliash as “hips”. Both still display “hip circumference” which doesn’t explain why I had “seat” before??? And it’s not editable so I don’t think I could have changed it?

An off the cuff idea is we could create a “tailor’s” set of translation files… :slight_smile:

Well I’ll be damned… Don’t know how I missed it, albeit most of my time has been spent on the Seamly2D app… there IS an Open Template menu item in SeamlyMe - it defaults to the “template” directory you set in the prefs. IMO the distributions need to place the templates in the measurements folder and not the app->tables->templates folder.

That being said, when you open a template you are prevented from “saving” it - you must “save-as”. Deja vu.

So all we need are more pattern system templates. :slight_smile:

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Here are a few that I created way back when I was checking everything out, they have measurements attached & some are multisize & some have unknown measurements when I couldn’t find something to match the description:

Armstrong Measurements - Size 14a.vit (3.7 KB)

Aldrich Baby - Birth to 6 Months.vst (1.0 KB)

Aldrich Mens Jeans Basic Block Measurements.vit (770 Bytes)

Burgo - Size 44.vit (1.7 KB)

Kershaw Mens Measurements - Size 38.vit (2.1 KB)

Aldrich Boys - 3 to 6 Years.vst (2.0 KB)

These can be a small start :slight_smile:

Something that I’ve just thought of, while we’re on the subject…

As you can see, I work with various pattern systems, especially when helping people here on the forum. So my question is… Shouldn’t the pattern system be specific to the measurements/pattern file? Rather than a preset in the programs?

It’s totally not necessary, just my thoughts. I think that a ‘map’ of the different systems will assist in the programming, creating templates and for newbies who are looking for their specific measurements.

I will NEVER forget how I searched & searched those lists when I was starting out

That’s what I did for all the tools so I’d have something to refer to with all the file, class, icon, tags, etc… to eliminate things like a tool being called Point on Line and it’s icon being called cut.png.

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Well currently the pattern system pref doesn’t do anything. My idea is to use it to simply set the default file that shows up in the Open Template dialog… just to save some scrolling and/or mouse clicks in the file dialog if you use a particular system all the time. You would still have the option to select another template.

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Yes, it does make life easier when you have a map. I’m also thinking that a spreadsheet of the codes can also be used to gather their names in all the different languages, for the translations, but that’s again, a mammoth task on its own.

Yes, that would be fine, but would it also be attached to the measurement file that is created under that preference?

Because I have a bunch more files that I didn’t mark which system was used & I can’t remember any more :blush:

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Yes… some how a given template file needs to be associated with a given pattern system… assuming there is a template. Ideally we would have a template for every system. But again the pref would not select the actual file, but rather suggest which template to open for the currently selected pattern system.

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In other words… A user could select the Supreme System/ Croonberg in the prefs, and without having to know what template file to open, when they goto Open Template in SeamlyMe, the supreme system filename is preset in the file dialog. And the user simply needs to click ok. If they want to they could use the file dialog to select the Aldrich mens template… and / or go back and change the default pattern system.

In other words it’s a way around having to hard code writing out a template for a given system. It’s more flexible in that if a change needs to be made, just the associated template file needs to be changed without recompiling the app.

Or… one could just use the allmeasurements template. :slight_smile:

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Yes, that would be really handy for newbies. However… As I see it, the pattern system also affects the name of the codes, so… while selecting the system at the start, which will bring up all sorts of preferences, it will also give you the correct name that is in the book, while you are actually making the pattern per the instructions, so that you don’t have to guess if you have the correct measurement when using the formulas.

So it’s actually much more than just selecting a template.

With this in mind, I’m thinking that if one decides to try a different pattern system… Wouldn’t it be better if the preference changes when you change the measurements file? So that one is calling apples, apples & not pears? As you mentioned before with the hip_circ/seat?

Ich habe hier die Disskussion verfolgt. Meine Erfahrungen sind folgende: Ich arbeite mit keinen der Vorlage:( Maße und Messungen sind so individuell, für mich sind in den Vorlagen viel zu viele Messungen, die nie gebraucht werden. Oft stiften diese nur Verwirrung - besonders dann, wenn man mit der Mustererstellung nicht so vertraut ist. Vielleicht wäre es eher sinnvoll auf wirklich relevante Maße hinzuweisen und das anlegen und berechnen von Hilfsmaßen, die bei der Mustererstellung notwendig sind und manchmal auch variieren können, näher zu erläutern.

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Yes, I think if people are making patterns by following a set of instructions from a particular book, it is incredibly helpful to only have those specific named measurements listed and formulas pre set up to make the process less daunting.

Agree! The tailoring terms are often left off in favour of women’s pattern drafting terms. The common terms of chest, inseam, outseam, seat would be useful for menswear drafting. noting: The section O: Men& Tailoring includes waist circumference as does the section in circumference and arc, but not chest because it was determined bust in circumference area was sufficient, which is fine, but not consistent.

Good, I was thinking I was missing something! I have zero, none, nil, no knowledge of coding at all. I don’t understand a lot of the parlance either so I am often worried that the obvious is invisible to me. If that makes sense. :grinning:

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Just a bit of insight… Qt has a translation mechanism that tags each instance of where you code a string to be translated. The app will on the fly replace that coded string with the translated string contained in one of the selected language files. In the case of the measurements it appears the “Canadian English” most represents the coded strings as defined in a versioned schema file. That’s why when I switched to French to American English hip_circ changed to Hips.,… but regardless what gui language is used the measurement file will always save the schema name - hip_circ.

What I’m still baffled by is how I got hip_circ and Seat in the screencap? As you can’t edit the fullname, and even if you edit the vit file it won’t show up as the measurement dialog will only show the fullname by referencing the name… unless it’s custom measurement prefixed with @.

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Theoretically a pattern system template should have a limited number of measurements… only those needed by the system to draft a pattern. For example, using the Croonberg’s " Blue Book of Men’s Tailoring: Grand Edition of Supreme System For Producing Men’s Garments" generally requires only the chest, waist , sleeve length and height to draft a men’s jacket. Add in the seat for pants. It uses a few other “direct measures” for drafting vests and to fine tune a draft for a better fit.

On the other hand, like you I use a set of measurements based on forms from a few professional theatres we deal with that covers just about anything I need to draft. It has 51 “known” measurements and 13 custom ones. In fact I tried importing measurements from a few patterns from others and it added nothing new.

That being said, I think the idea of having pattern system templates is an aide for new users, who can just select a template that matches whatever system they are using. There’s nothing precluding a user from then adding to their form. Chances are my set of measurements would allow me to draft using a good portion of the systems.

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Continuing the discussion from "Pattern Making System" question:

A string, of course, being a string of characters, (think “string of letter beads.”) So Douglas can give one of the backstage workers a list of changes to make if a dignitary, or tour group of foreigners, are identified at the ticket booth.

(I once saw a stage production of “Mephistopheles” with English subtitles. Of course, that was because the foreign opera was showing in a South Carolina theater, but the principle holds.)

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I do not use the templates either. I use a list that I have made for the method I use to draft patterns. I found the measurement list overwhelming to go through.

I do think that a template matched to a particular book is useful for those people who are drafting from the book, it would simplify the process of locating, and loading the measurement fields required.

Translated from above… “Perhaps it would make more sense to point out really relevant dimensions and to explain in more detail the creation and calculation of auxiliary dimensions that are necessary when creating the sample and can sometimes vary.”

A thread devoted to this might be very useful.

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Hola la verdad es que yo tampoco usos las medidas que trae el programa ya que muchas no sirven para hacer un patrón.
En mi pagina web tengo un articulo que ampliaré y habla de cómo tomar medidas con imágenes unas figuras localizando cada medida co un numero y la explicación de cómo tomarlas en una tabla. El problema es que está en español pero pongo el enlace para que puedas traducir por Chrome. link del articulo.https://www.puntadaypixel.com/tabla-de-tallas/ Captura de pantalla 2021-06-23 a las 10.22.59

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