Seam allowance inside the pattern

SeamlyMe
1

Hi!

I have a question again. So I have this facing pattern which needs to have seam allowance on outside and inside of the pattern. But because the pattern doesn’t have fold line, I cannot go to the inside the facing line to set the inside seam allowance.

Here is what I meant, the facing is the violet line

facing

When I trace it, it become like a regular bodice pattern, not facing pattern. So I added additional “cut line” for me to be able to go inside the facing line.

facing 2
facing 21381×691 107 KB

It should go like this

facing 3

My plan is to trace it manually on Illustrator, but I wonder if there’s a way to insert the inside seam allowance?

Thank you so much!

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2

Someone who knows what they’re doing will hopefully be by later today, but as I’m here now, hopefully my answer suffices.

I think you’re wanting a donuted pattern piece? If you were to create a wf4a & a wf2a at 0 units away from their parent points, & then traced around, entering the loop via wf4 & wf2, & exiting the loop via wf2a & wf4a, & then setting the seam allowance between wf4 & wf2 to 0, & between wf2a & wf4a to 0, then than should closely approximate what it looks like you’re trying to achieve. At the very least, it will eliminate most of the Illustrator work.

I hope that makes sense & is helpful!

:unicorn:

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3

Wow, you’re a lifesaver! Why do I not think of that. Thank you so so much! This community is the best! :star_struck:

May I ask one more thing? Is it anyway to make the notch like the continuation of the pattern line? For example this pattern, I want the notch position to be like the red line

notch

Thank you so much!

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4

So glad that was helpful!

As to this new question, yes & no. Unfortunately, it is not possible to set the notch angle with a formula (@Douglas would this be reasonable?) But there are a couple options. I’ll use A14_a4 as my example (since I can see the name of the dart point.)

  1. Not the best, just the first I thought of, I recommend skipping straight to option 2.
    • In the pattern piece tool dialog, go to the Notches tab & select A14_a4
  • In the Geometry section:
    • uncheck “Show notch on Cut Line”
    • check “Show notch on Seam Line” (You may need to activate it in the universal preferences)
    • Rotate the angle around to where it’s in line with the internal path, (probably 180 deg. You can drag-select the numeral & change it, but smaller changes are easier to click through with the adjustment arrows.
    • you’ll need to hit “Apply” repeatedly if you don’t have epic angle senses.
  1. This method should be better. In drafting mode.
    • Use the midpoint on line tool from chest to A14_a4
    • change the formula to CurrentLength+1 (assuming that your seam allowance is equal to 1 unit.)
    • I’ll call this point A14_a4a
    • have the internal path for the dart end at A14_a4a instead of A14_a4.

Hopefully that will work for you with only minor adjustments!

:unicorn:

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You can set the angle of a notch. Currently though the app doesnt support a formula for the angle, so it will probably be a trial and error thing.

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Thank you so so much for all your help! I’ll try on all of the suggestions!

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