I’m nearly complete my first pattern 
When I make a new pattern piece (Seen on right), the straight of grain is super tiny and I have to zoom in to lengthen a bit, then zoom out to lengthen to desired length of pattern.
I would prefer if its just a sufficient length from the beginning, is this a bug or is there a setting for this??
You can to set your defult preferences for the Grainlnes.
Keep in mind that at the momment - unlike the labels, a grainline will not auto resize to fit iside a pattern piece. You could end up with this if you set it too long:
Appreciate that!
Is there a maximum that you can set? It wouldn’t let me type out anything larger than 20.
Strange, I had to go & try it. Yep, it won’t take the 5 in 25. I have mine set on 15cm, so I’ve never noticed.
I normally open a pattern pieces property editor to lengthen or shorten the grainlines when I need to.
My bad. I must have figured that 20 “inches” was long enough for a max default value, not taking into account the pattern units could be “cm” or “mm”. The value of the box is currently set to 20.000 . 
I’m going to make it so the spinbox dynamically sets the max based the units - like the notch prefs do.
Right… as pointed out I did not account for the units so the spinbox max is set to 20.000 regardless of the pattern units.
If course I’ll have a fix. 
At some point I’d like to improve the grainlines, and have more options. For one as I pointed out the grainlines should auto resize to fit inside a piece. Also I would like to see an option to have the grainline extend to the cutline at both ends. That’s pretty much how I drafted my patterns. By extending to the cutline it makes it easy to line up when you’re cutting stripes or plaids.
Done. I also fixed the default label size as it had the same issue.
Ooooh, I wondered why I saw so many people, drafting by had, using a centre line (or other main internal line) for the grainline, just putting an arrow at the top & bottom of it. Now it make sense. Thank you.
Thank you very much, @Douglas 
Exactly. Actually since a lot of the time I was grading an existing pattern I would first draw a vertical and horizonatal line on the paper. On the piece I was grading I would mark on either side of the horz & vert lines tick marks every 1/8 for about 1 1/2 on each side. These would then be the reference for how much each grade point would move up/dn and in/out. Of course I then aquired a used Dario grading machine that would move the piece without having to draw the tick marks. But I would still draw reference lines. On jackets at the chest and waist. On pants I would also draw a horz line the seat, knee, and at a 32" inseam hem. I usually allowed 3" for hem. The reason why I always did this is if wasn’t a crucial job and I didn’t have time I would just grade a pattern on the fly right on the fabric.
