UPDATED Adding Seam and HemAllowance, Labeling Pattern Pieces

Updated - new Higher Res Video: And I realize this method of adding on a hem works best for hemlines that are (mostly) square with the side seams - I still need to figure out a better way to add hems to curved/angled hems

How to Finalize your Pattern Pieces in Detail Mode: Edit Seam Allowances, Add Hem allowances, Add Internal Lines (Paths), and Add on Labels.

Shows how to use ‘Seam Allowance’, ‘Insert Node’, and ‘Piece Path’ tools, and Options in the Details mode


Thanks @KatieDKeith!

This video (and your YouTube channel) have been added to the Wiki!


Your YouTube channel name is super!

The Costume Maker’s Guide to the Galaxy


thanks :slight_smile: It’s the name of my Facebook page for my costume commission business (below). My plan was to upload ‘how to’ videos for sewing skills, but I need someone else to help me film those or figure out how to set-up a camera to do it myself, which wouldn’t be all that hard but I just haven’t had the time yet as I’ve been very busy with orders ( I specialize in making costumes for characters ‘In a Galaxy Far, Far Away’). But it so easy and quick to do a screen video, and I like to do them right away (and not worry about making them prefect) as it really helps me remember what I just learned. Plus I taught Fashion Design CAD at a Indiana University, and I used to do instructional videos like this for my students to help them figure out how to draw garment flats in Illustrator or edit images in photoshop, so it’s something I already know how to do well enough.

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Also - I just watched the video on my youtube channel and realized it is very low res, that’s because I saved it as a smaller file so it would upload quicker as it ended up being a very long video. But it is hard to see- so I’m going to try uploading my original movie file of this and then I’ll repost that video (if it works)

OK - I’ve replaced (and deleted) the original low res video with a new higher res version

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HI @KatieDKeith,

Let us know if you have feedback, suggestions, etc. for our software. Our users are the secret to success! Also if you know any programmers ask if they’d like to take on an issue or two.

Yes, there is one thing so far - I wish I had always access to all the lines & curves in any of my pattern pieces within the same file. It seems I only have access to lines/curves of the pattern pieces I’ve made before and not after. For example, my pattern piece 1/A is my jacket block and piece 2/B is my sleeve block. So I have access to the length of armhole curve on my jacket in piece 1/A to make my sleeve block in piece 2/B. But now I want to be able to place pass-points on the jacket’s armhole curve in piece 1 that match the length of curved segments on the sleeve armhole in piece 2/B, but when I’m working on my Jacket Piece 1/A I only have access to the lines/curves from piece 1/A . Hopefully that makes sense, but if you need me the clarify further, let me know - thanks!

@KatieDKeith, It’s a difficult constraint to implement.

I figured as much since it is that way - I’m no programmer so I don’t know what’s easy or not

Yes, that a limitation. After you have used the program for awhile you will learn to plan ahead and know which objects to create first.

It should be noted that if you find yourself stuck, you can add objects earlier in the timeline by using the history. Open the history list and note the arrow in the left hand column … You can place the arrow at the point in the history you want to add an object… once you move the arrow, leave the history open and create your new object.


Thanks! this is exactly what I needed to know to help me as I need to fix/change a node I made earlier.

But I’m not sure if it would fix the exact problem I have with the armhole pass points, as I need to draw the armhole curve first on the jacket block to have that measurement to make the sleeve block. Then I wish i could measure the length of segments on my sleeve block to put those pass point on the original jacket armhole curve so I know where to line up my sleeve to my jacket. I know how to do this pretty instinctively when sewing myself but I’m trying to make costume patterns for people who often have no sewing experience at all, so I need to give them as much help as possible.

I’ve thought of another feature that would be helpful: in layout mode, it would be so helpful if you could choose to layout the pieces with the grain lines all parallel to the paper’s length edge and the pieces that are cut on the fold are even the left side. For people like me with a large-format printer, I can set the paper width to my fabric width, and then when I’d make the layout, I’l already have the best fit of the pieces figured out for me and I’ll have a good idea how much fabric I’ll need.


@KatieDKeith I agree with you, this feature to align the grainlines is one of the most frequently requested improvements.

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great minds think alike :slight_smile:

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We had a discussion in another topic about being able to turn off rotation of layout pieces as well as the lining up by grainline. Eventually we’ll get there… in fact to create a true “marker” we need to be able to align by grainline. Also I might add we need to be able to align by nap or one way fabrics as well. One step further than that being able to line up details such as pockets & pocket flaps


This is the major reason why I think I will need to use some other software with time - no “real” layout option. Would be great if it was added.

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Yeah… the layout mode is really a “print” layout not a cut marker in the normal sense.